I came across another designer label that I had previously been unfamiliar with, and guess what? It’s founded by two sisters from India who were born and brought up in Mumbai! Miuniku is the brainchild of Tina and Nikita Sutradhar, and their collection was showcased at the Elms Lesters Painting Room during the London Fashion Week 2016.
I was mighty impressed on seeing their work and decided to dig a little deeper. The Sutradhar sisters graduated from the London College of Fashion in June 2013, where they were awarded two prestigious awards – the Fashion Innovation Award and the ISKO™ Denim Diffusion Award – for their womens wear collection. Their creations also had them poised as semi-finalists at the H&M Design Awards 2014 and winners of a Special Jury Prize at the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers 2014. And look where they are today – with their apparel being showcased at the LFS 2016! What a journey.
As far as their Autumn/Fall collection is concerned, it was themed upon the spirit of exploration. The Miuniku collection was inspired by the notion of explorers’ diagrams and eye for organic details. Geological patterns and motifs such as waves, mountains and uneven lines of sediments and rocks were incorporated into their designs. In keeping with their fascination with everything earthy, Tina and Nikita used primary and dark hues in shades drawn from nature. With an eye to make their clothing functionally appropriate for the quintessential explorer, the collection had a sporty vibe and much utilitarian value. Clean lines, paired with both minimal and maximal elements, created an interesting, wearable wardrobe that any adventurous girl would love to have.
This collection made me proud for it brought two young, talented Indian girls much-deserved international attention. I liked their work a lot.
Photo Credits : Joe Hart
His Autumn/Winter 2016 collection presentation was held at the Elms Lesters Painting Rooms in Soho and there is only one word to describe the venue, the collection and the ambience: striking.
As always, the minimalism of every piece allowed the sheer quality of the craft to shine through, and it was evident that every single piece in this collection was tailored with utmost care and attentiveness. The attention to detail stretched to the hair and makeup as well, which was carefully chosen to create the illusion that the models were ethereal statues rather than human.
Minki Cheng’s primary inspiration was the retro entertainment of his youth and thus featured elements such as anime robots, caricatured warriors and other unearthly motifs. In keeping with his typical style, the colours he used were very vibrant – full of metallic shades and neons – reminding me of disco balls in retro clubs. Oversized jackets, frayed ribboning and frills, dramatic silhouettes and monochromatic, patterned apparels graced his ramp. What I loved about his collection is its attempt to redefine and revaluate the fashion sensibilities of the Modern Woman. Straying away from the path of tried and tested hits, Minki Cheng’s designs challenged the boundaries of regular-wear outfits with much aplomb.
This was actually the guiding principle of Cheng’s design philosophy – to create edgy apparel that matched the non-conformist tendencies of bold, beautiful women. I think he succeeded in executing his vision for I have to say, his designs, though quite experimental, were suitably alluring to make one want them for oneself. I certainly wanted to take many of his creations home. That may not have been possible but I was happy enough to feast my eyes on them too!
Georgia Hardinge’s “Hidden” is inspired by last year’s meteor showers, and attempted to capture the mysterious nature of the universe in her designs. She experimented with lenticular techniques so that stunning illusions and angular revelations gave an intriguing edge to her clothes. Her showcase, which had both a traditional catwalk presentation and a walk-by display of models, was so full of surprises for me. The ramp models paraded outfits very clearly inspired by shooting stars having simple silhouettes in midnight hues of blue, magenta and ivory. For the display that was off the ramp, models clad in her creations stood in between holographic slats with gelled baby hair and French plaits, adding to the inventive vibe.
What I loved about Hardinge’s “Hidden” is the structural innovativeness, which I suspect comes from her deep fascination with architecture and sculpture. Seeing her collection was like watching a magic show – different angles exposed different fabrics, designs and colours, making each garment extremely striking and unique. This avant garde sense of aesthetics and design is really what experimental fashion is all about. And don’t get me wrong, most of her pieces are highly wearable as well – something you could easily sport on a date or an evening out, I am definitely getting my hands on it soon. This combination of conceptual newness and conventional stylistics made “Hidden” one of my favourite collections from the London Fashion Week.
I seriously maintain that you had to be there to understand the brilliance of it, but I hope my second-hand account has aroused your interest as well. Stay tuned for more updates from my LFW 2016 visit!
To drive the point of simplicity home, Edeline made use of pure shapes, clean lines and classic fabrics, resulting in a markedly minimalist collection that exudes warmth and comfort. The silhouettes were mostly relaxed and flowing – oversized overcoats, slouchy pockets and beautiful sweater dresses – but became more fitted in glamorous pieces like printed dresses, gowns and skinny trousers. 
Cream was the most prominent colour in the collection, and was paired with black piping to create effortlessly elegant pieces, while occasional flashes of bold red and deep green infused some colour into the collection in a very understated way.
In just a few short years, Edeline Lee, a graduate from Central Saint Martins and an apprentice with both Alexander McQueen and John Galliano, amongst others, has managed to show the world that she is here to stay. She is known for designing for the woman of tomorrow – is it any wonder that she has been worn by the likes of Taylor Swift or Solage Knowles?
From what I’ve heard, Sid Neigum approaches apparel design with the precision and aesthetic sense of a mathematician. His clothes attempt to find the golden ratio in design, thus emphasizing the nuances of body structure, silhouette and colours. The Fall/Winter collection he showcased here comprised of modern cuts and fabrics, fashioning clothes in both structured and relaxed designs. He used a variety of interesting fabrics including wool, 100 % camel hair, polyurethane and even synthetic blends comprising of 28% metal. Trust me when I say this, seeing his collection was fascinating yet soothing to the eyes. I guess, when someone combines mathematic acumen with a refined design capability, wonderful clothing is created.
What I loved about Neigum’s collection is that the clothes were in the foreground and the sole centre of attention. The models were wearing nude makeup and simple messy buns, and this minimalism ensured you focused on the apparel and nothing else. As far as the clothes go, I can only describe them as chic with an ostensibly contemporary aesthetic. They are the kind of clothes one wouldn’t think twice about wearing on the street. And there’s something about such wearable clothing that I always find to be very impressive. If you can wear what you saw on the ramp off it too, the designer is doing something right!
Danielle Romeril cited vast and varied influences for this collection – from Isabel de Valois, a consort to King Philip II of Spain, to the graphic stripes found on cycling jerseys; from the free-spirited vibes of Studio Paradiso, a cult Dutch nightclub, to classic football scarves that were all the rage in the nineties. These assorted influences came together to form a collection that is markedly inspired by historical fashion, period costume and traditional textures, with sporty touches in details like stripes, drawstrings, graphic zips and parkas. Add a subtle futuristic flavour with the occasional psychedelic print and there you have it – a collection that is really, really exciting.
The wide array of colours, the beautiful synergy between different textures, the play on proportion and the statement cut-outs found on many of the pieces in the collection where definitely stand out features. The finishing touches were the icing on the cake – black graphic lines painted on the models’ faces for makeup and grungy Dr. Martens worn with conventional socks for the right amount of oomph.
Today, Zita is an internationally acclaimed floral decorator, interior designer and design consultant. Ask her how she achieved so much in such little time and she gives partial credit to her formal education, including a full course in interior design and another in garden design as well as an intensive course in floristry techniques. It is this solid foundation that her natural talent and creativity surmount, allowing her to produce her enthralling masterpieces.
“What inspires you?”, I ask and she thinks for a while before answering. She then confesses that being a keen observer has always bolstered her capabilities. She lived in many places including Paris, Germany, Italy and other unique cities and has travelled far and wide across the world. Her exposure to numerous cultures and their art-and-design sensibilities has contributed to the formulation of her own unique style. Her work reflects a nuanced understanding of human nature, art and beauty. “Inspiration is everywhere”, she says, “All around us. You just have to seek and harness it intelligently, and that comes to me instinctively.” Clearly, Zita doesn’t struggle with ideation or creative exhaustion much; her struggles are of a different kind.
(Snippets of Maral’s Fashion Showcase at London Fashion Week SS16 2016- Fashion Scout Event)
(Maral’s JW Marriot Fashion Store – which houses her collections in India)
