Tag: London Fashion Week AW16

I have kept you updated on the interesting collections that I came across at the London Fashion Week 2016. Adding to the bounty of titbits from this fashion mega-event, here’s a post about Toga’s whacky Autumn Winter collection called “Pleasures, Nature, Concurrence”.

Before I get into details about the collection itself, I must give you some extra info on this designer label. After all, you can’t truly appreciate a collection unless you know what fashion philosophy it is arising from. So TOGA is one of Japan’s leading designer brands, founded by Yasuko Furuta in 1997. In the past twenty years, the international presence of this brand has increased manifold and TOGA has received several prestigious awards for their creations. I have to admit though, what first draw me to the brand was its name. A toga actually is a blessed robe and that is exactly what Furuta’s design ideology is – creating unique outfits that are carry hidden complexities, layered structures and fine detailing. The apparel by this brand is crafted based on much research on fabric, many experiments with styling and continual fusion of different genres. And the final product reflects this effort beautifully, as evident from their AW 2016 collection. 

TOGA’s “Pleasures, Nature, Concurrence” was full of eclectic clothing that drew inspiration from the natural world. It used varied motifs of animals, geological shapes, organic foods and even microorganisms like paramecium and bacteria. The objects incorporated into their designs were seemingly chosen at random, with an attempt to celebrate the beauty of anarchy. Many of the outfits had patchwork pockets and sleeves, asymmetrical, flowy silhouettes and many other eccentric nuances. 

What I liked about this collection is that every garment sort of told a story. But you had to find the plot for yourself to enjoy its wild, wacky vibe. It certainly had me intrigued, what about you?

Gabriel Vielma is known for his keen eye for colour, texture and shape. This, when combined with his expert cutting skills, results in pieces which are truly beautiful and special, always striking the perfect balance between elegant and fun. The Gabriel Vielma woman is independent, vibrant and unafraid of the new – and his Autumn/Winter 2016 collection presentation was a true testament to her.For this collection, Gabriel Vielma sought his inspiration from the soothing waters of the sea – think vintage sailor imagery, navigation maps, aquatic flora and fauna, and the infamous Wes Anderson movie titled ‘The Life Aquatic.’

One of the most interesting things about this collection was the setup and the background, which was made to look like the interior of a submarine, with electric blue piping, periscopes and iPads highlighting the models’ eyes as they moved around.The collection features a pleasant mix of warm and cool shades, like saffron, khaki, deep blue and black, underpinned by ocean-inspired glittery socks worn with leather sandals. Suede was definitely the standout fabric for this collection and featured heavily on outwear pieces, in combination with sailor braids, as well as nautical knots on dresses and tops. Seabirds circling the ocean were the most prominent motifs, followed by the contours of navigation maps.

A memorable trip to the seaside, indeed!

While I was sitting about, reliving every blissful moment from the London Fashion Week 2016, I suddenly remembered that I hadn’t written about one of the most fascinating collections I came across. It was none other than Three Floor’s “Curious Labyrinth” which has incidentally received rave reviews from fashion critics as well.
This collection combined the elegance of Victorian romance with darker nuances of enticing Gothic culture. The clothing was initially inspired by a gothic novel but somewhere down the line, Tim Walker’s photography further nuanced the designers’ approach. In a certain sense, Three Floor’s “Curious Labyrinth” combined conflicting principles of aesthetics to create outfits that were in my opinion, quite striking and wearable.

To successfully assimilate fine Victorian stylistics with bold Gothic fashion, Third Floor juxtaposed delicate motifs with dark hues and soft detailing with severely tailored forms. So there were floral patterns and lacy trims, but in atypical shades of black, burgundy, ink blue and plum. There were box pleats and billowy ruffles, paired with stiff accents and structured silhouettes. The detailing on dresses was simply exquisite and I really liked the unique cuts on several pieces.

Another reason for the Three Floor collection being very alluring was the intelligent makeup and styling of the models. With minimalist makeup, simple up-dos and wispy fly-aways, and popping, bold lips, their appearance fused conflicting characteristics of The Virgin and The Vixen. To that extent, everything about this collection remained true to the vision of curiously complex, dark Gothic romance.  And perhaps that is why it was so well-received by audiences.

Personally speaking, I can’t get my mind off of one particular piece called “Floral Feeling”. It was a lovely dress which used a combination of black embroidered lace and black mesh detailing, thus offering a fresh take on the classic LBD. So for me, Third Floor’s collection was quite special. Would you agree? Don’t hesitate to share your thoughts!

I came across another designer label that I had previously been unfamiliar with, and guess what? It’s founded by two sisters from India who were born and brought up in Mumbai! Miuniku is the brainchild of Tina and Nikita Sutradhar, and their collection was showcased at the Elms Lesters Painting Room during the London Fashion Week 2016.I was mighty impressed on seeing their work and decided to dig a little deeper. The Sutradhar sisters graduated from the London College of Fashion in June 2013, where they were awarded two prestigious awards – the Fashion Innovation Award and the ISKO™ Denim Diffusion Award – for their womens wear collection. Their creations also had them poised as semi-finalists at the H&M Design Awards 2014 and winners of a Special Jury Prize at the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers 2014. And look where they are today – with their apparel being showcased at the LFS 2016! What a journey.As far as their Autumn/Fall collection is concerned, it was themed upon the spirit of exploration. The Miuniku collection was inspired by the notion of explorers’ diagrams and eye for organic details. Geological patterns and motifs such as waves, mountains and uneven lines of sediments and rocks were incorporated into their designs. In keeping with their fascination with everything earthy, Tina and Nikita used primary and dark hues in shades drawn from nature. With an eye to make their clothing functionally appropriate for the quintessential explorer, the collection had a sporty vibe and much utilitarian value. Clean lines, paired with both minimal and maximal elements, created an interesting, wearable wardrobe that any adventurous girl would love to have.

This collection made me proud for it brought two young, talented Indian girls much-deserved international attention. I liked their work a lot.

Photo Credits : Joe Hart

Trained in architecture from The Bartlett School of Architecture, London, Omer Asim is a designer with a truly unique aesthetic. The man is an explorer who consistently pushes the envelope by de constructing and reinterpreting the shapes and silhouettes that are found in modern fashion and design. His Autumn/Winter 2016 collection presentation was held at the Elms Lesters Painting Rooms in Soho and there is only one word to describe the venue, the collection and the ambience: striking.

The collection explores the concept of contrast and balance – masculine and feminine, black and white, leather and silk, wool and wood, et al. Omer Asim remained true to his contemporary aesthetic, clean lines and architectural silhouettes, with a muted minimal colour palette and unique textures, coupled with intricate details. In his exploration of contrast, Omer Asim created many unexpected combinations – for example, pairing a structured, asymmetric top with a feminine mid-length skirt.As always, the minimalism of every piece allowed the sheer quality of the craft to shine through, and it was evident that every single piece in this collection was tailored with utmost care and attentiveness. The attention to detail stretched to the hair and makeup as well, which was carefully chosen to create the illusion that the models were ethereal statues rather than human.

It was simply mind-blowing but of course, we wouldn’t expect anything less from this talented designer.

Photo Credits – Joe Hart

Another update on the ongoings at the London Fashion Week, here’s a post on an up and coming designer whose roots lie in Hong Kong. Minki Cheng spent his childhood years there but soon moved to London to pursue a career in design. Having seen his collection, I feel that his childhood, spent in the colourful, eclectic environs of Hong Kong, continues to influence his style mantra – and that’s what made his creations distinctive and striking.Minki Cheng’s primary inspiration was the retro entertainment of his youth and thus featured elements such as anime robots, caricatured warriors and other unearthly motifs. In keeping with his typical style, the colours he used were very vibrant – full of metallic shades and neons – reminding me of disco balls in retro clubs. Oversized jackets, frayed ribboning and frills, dramatic silhouettes and monochromatic, patterned apparels graced his ramp. What I loved about his collection is its attempt to redefine and revaluate the fashion sensibilities of the Modern Woman. Straying away from the path of tried and tested hits, Minki Cheng’s designs challenged the boundaries of regular-wear outfits with much aplomb.This was actually the guiding principle of Cheng’s design philosophy – to create edgy apparel that matched the non-conformist tendencies of bold, beautiful women. I think he succeeded in executing his vision for I have to say, his designs, though quite experimental, were suitably alluring to make one want them for oneself. I certainly wanted to take many of his creations home. That may not have been possible but I was happy enough to feast my eyes on them too!

Photo Credits – Joe Hart

I’ve had such a great time attending numerous events and some designer displays at London Fashion Week have left me so mesmerized, I feel compelled to write about them.

Georgia Hardinge is one of those, whose Autumn/Winter collection “Hidden” created quite a buzz. She learned design at the Parons School of Art and Design in Paris where she was awarded the Best Designer Award for her graduate collection, thus catapulting her into the limelight. She then received a BFS Contemporary Scholarship by the British Fashion Council for 2014-15 and having seen her work now, I completely understand why! Georgia Hardinge’s “Hidden” is inspired by last year’s meteor showers, and attempted to capture the mysterious nature of the universe in her designs. She experimented with lenticular techniques so that stunning illusions and angular revelations gave an intriguing edge to her clothes. Her showcase, which had both a traditional catwalk presentation and a walk-by display of models, was so full of surprises for me. The ramp models paraded outfits very clearly inspired by shooting stars having simple silhouettes in midnight hues of blue, magenta and ivory. For the display that was off the ramp, models clad in her creations stood in between holographic slats with gelled baby hair and French plaits, adding to the inventive vibe.What I loved about Hardinge’s “Hidden” is the structural innovativeness, which I suspect comes from her deep fascination with architecture and sculpture. Seeing her collection was like watching a magic show – different angles exposed different fabrics, designs and colours, making each garment extremely striking and unique. This avant garde sense of aesthetics and design is really what experimental fashion is all about. And don’t get me wrong, most of her pieces are highly wearable as well – something you could easily sport on a date or an evening out, I am definitely getting my hands on it soon. This combination of conceptual newness and conventional stylistics made “Hidden” one of my favourite collections from the London Fashion Week.I seriously maintain that you had to be there to understand the brilliance of it, but I hope my second-hand account has aroused your interest as well. Stay tuned for more updates from my LFW 2016 visit!

Photo Credits – Eva K.Salvi

In a world that is becoming more complicated and fast paced with each passing day, trends that allow one to simplify their life are becoming increasingly popular – think decluttering (Marie Kondo, anyone?), clean eating, raw diets, digital detoxes et al. Edeline Lee Autumn Winter 2016 was born from this very idea of returning to simplicity, of underexposing and of minimising in every aspect of life, including fashion.

 To drive the point of simplicity home, Edeline made use of pure shapes, clean lines and classic fabrics, resulting in a markedly minimalist collection that exudes warmth and comfort. The silhouettes were mostly relaxed and flowing – oversized overcoats, slouchy pockets and beautiful sweater dresses – but became more fitted in glamorous pieces like printed dresses, gowns and skinny trousers.   Cream was the most prominent colour in the collection, and was paired with black piping to create effortlessly elegant pieces, while occasional flashes of bold red and deep green infused some colour into the collection in a very understated way.

The presentation took place at the On|Off space at The Vinyl Factory on the first day of London Fashion Week and the atmosphere was absolutely electric. Like the collection, the set-up was simple yet edgy – a classic black and white tiled flooring, accessorized with large piles of shredded tissue paper in multiple colours. What a great way to kick off the week!  In just a few short years, Edeline Lee, a graduate from Central Saint Martins and an apprentice with both Alexander McQueen and John Galliano, amongst others, has managed to show the world that she is here to stay. She is known for designing for the woman of tomorrow – is it any wonder that she has been worn by the likes of Taylor Swift or Solage Knowles?

Photo Credits – Simbarashe Cha

Hello Again!

With this post, I bring to you another one of the wonderful finds from the London Fashion Week 2016. I was unfamiliar with Toronto-based designer Sid Neigum’s work so far. But on seeing his collection that he himself described as “maximal and minimal”, I realized I had really been missing out on something.From what I’ve heard, Sid Neigum approaches apparel design with the precision and aesthetic sense of a mathematician. His clothes attempt to find the golden ratio in design, thus emphasizing the nuances of body structure, silhouette and colours. The Fall/Winter collection he showcased here comprised of modern cuts and fabrics, fashioning clothes in both structured and relaxed designs. He used a variety of interesting fabrics including wool, 100 % camel hair, polyurethane and even synthetic blends comprising of 28% metal. Trust me when I say this, seeing his collection was fascinating yet soothing to the eyes. I guess, when someone combines mathematic acumen with a refined design capability, wonderful clothing is created.What I loved about Neigum’s collection is that the clothes were in the foreground and the sole centre of attention. The models were wearing nude makeup and simple messy buns, and this minimalism ensured you focused on the apparel and nothing else. As far as the clothes go, I can only describe them as chic with an ostensibly contemporary aesthetic. They are the kind of clothes one wouldn’t think twice about wearing on the street. And there’s something about such wearable clothing that I always find to be very impressive. If you can wear what you saw on the ramp off it too, the designer is doing something right!

So Sid Neigum’s collection was the surprise revelation at the London Fashion Week 2016 for me. Rest assured, I will be following his work closely from now on! How did you like his collection?

Photo Credits : Getty